If you ask New York City brow artist Robin Evans, soft wax is the superior option for a precise finish and thorough de-fuzzing. "Occasionally, hard wax is used, which, once it hardens, removes hair on its own without the need for strips," Evans tells Allure. "But I prefer using soft wax as it's more pliable when warm, so it grabs onto the hairs better," she says.
The warmth from the wax also acts as a pore softener which allows the hair to be removed directly from the follicle without breakage, adds Evans.
What are the benefits of brow waxing over other kinds of hair removal?
As opposed to eyebrow threading and plucking, waxing is considered the most precise hair removal method, especially for dealing with peach fuzz surrounding the brow. "With threading and tweezing, hair removal is limited to the hairs that are visible," says de la Garza. "Waxing removes vellus hair [peach fuzz] and gives the appearance of a softer brow shape," he adds.
Fans of sugaring love its natural formula – lemon, sugar, and water – "but it doesn't remove coarse hairs as well as waxing," says Evans. Equally, eyebrow waxing is said to be gentler on the hair follicles than using tweezers. "Plucking too much can cause scarring that looks like open pores," says Ellen Marmur, MD, a board-certified dermatologist in New York City.
The procedure is also dermatologist approved. "Waxing is an age-old, proven and safe way to remove hair from the brows," says Dr. Marmur, noting that the hair will then grow back considerably thinner over time. "In fact, I love it so much, I have my aesthetician wax my brows once a month," she adds.
What are the downsides and potential risks of eyebrow waxing?
Overall,eyebrow waxing is considered a safe and noninvasive treatment. But that's not to say that there are no risks, explains Dr. Marmur. "These include, burning, scarring, or irritating the skin when done incorrectly," she notes. "That said, the latest waxes and a good technique by a trained professional make it my preferred method of depilation with little redness."
If done correctly, waxing also has "minimal chance of allergic reaction or harming the skin," says Dr. Gohara. However, she does warn against the grooming technique for those with extremely sensitive skin. "If you're susceptible to inflammation, waxing can disrupt the already fragile skin barrier and stoke a fire," she explains to Allure.
For the same reason, women of color should proceed with caution. "Eyebrow waxing can result in the post-procedure lightening or darkening of melanin-rich skin," Dr. Gohara says. "This is because the wax peels off the barrier in the area and the skin can discolor as it regenerates." If you notice any pigment changes, talk to your dermatologist who may recommend a fading cream.
